It is good to be home.
Let’s dive right in, shall we?
Late night dining (lets just call a spade a spade….intoxicated late night dining) is different things to different people. For many a slice will suffice. Others, the greasier the better: burgers, fries, or chicken wings from the local Chinese spot are the go-to. There were times in my life when hitting a diner for eggs, waffles, and their usual accompaniments at an awkward hour was looked forward to as much, or more, than the binge drinking that preceded it. And there was also a time in my life, not many days past, where after copious amounts of drinks (have I mentioned drinking enough this paragraph?) there was one thing on the mind: sushi - and there was one place we would be enjoying that sushi: Blue Ribbon.
The Bromberg brothers, Eric and Bruce, opened their first Blue Ribbon restaurant in 1992. It may not appear so now, but the concept of Blue Ribbon was very novel. Blue Ribbon was at the forefront of the casual fine dining scene that is so very welcome by many, including myself, and the brothers amongst the pioneers of the concept. They have expanded aggressively (12 establishments in total…one in Sin City) but have maintained the highest of quality the entire journey. The fried chicken (pictured far below) is remarkable, some of the best I have ever had (and as we found out this past weekend…worth throwing a few fists to obtain). The consistency of the sushi they serve is commendable, and almost everything which graces their menus at any establishment is worth a go. Thus, when the decision for some advanced hour sushi was made, the Blue Ribbon Special (below) was the clear cut choice……and it always brought the house down.
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The tapa, legend has it, was birthed in the south of Spain, specifically in Andalusia. It is said that the original tapas were slices of meat or bread (or small plates of olives, etc) which sherry drinkers used to cover their glasses with between sips (the word tapas is derived from the verb tapar, meaning to ‘cover’). An edible lid serving to also dissuade insects from entering the holy realm of your libation. Although tapas originated in the south of Spain a small prodigiously picturesque town along the northern coast, overlooking the Bay of Biscay, truly perfected it’s styling. A little town you may have heard of (possibly here on this site…and recently!) called San Sebastian (Donostia).
A handful of the most memorable nights I have had within the walls of a restaurant occurred throughout Spain, whether it was the perfect dining experience at El Celler De Con Roca or shaking hands with Juan Arzak after finally getting to find out first hand what the endless buzz was about at his restaurant. While those moments will be burnt in my memory for the rest of my days I find myself recollecting back most fondly on a leisurely afternoon in San Sebastian, a day spent learning what a tapa really is.
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It was becoming a little bit, how you say, much. Overwhelming is most likely the correct word to use here. After countless (literally) tapas bars and almost as many extravagant tasting menus as days in the week it was, as the week long trip through Spain winded to it’s conclude, time for a little change of pace. This was not the time nor the place to take it light however. No, the foot must remain on the gas. But it was time for something different. It was time to throw the pallet a curve-ball.
The dining experience that we are about to discuss here and now might sound a little unconventional due to the locality of it’s undertaking, but it is easily explained away. Asian food may be the last thing you think of when traipsing around Spain (Barcelona in this case) but that mindset is changing due to the efforts of one man. Albert Raurich was the chef-de-cuisine at El Bulli from1997 to 2007 (a triumphant period of time for the “best restaurant in the world” no doubt) and his latest restaurant venture, Dos Palillos, is a venture into the cuisine of the Far East.
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Perfection is, broadly, a state of completeness and flawlessness. It describes a situation where absolutely nothing is awry. Free of all fault and of defects. Complete. Absolute. Utter. Thorough. By its very nature it is difficult to attain, some would say impossible. I beg to differ.
A restaurant that is getting a lot of play right now is El Celler De Can Roca. It is located about an hour North of Barcelona in the town of Girona. It has, for the past couple of years, been rated as the 2nd best restaurant in the world according to ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” Awards and it has even been called “the next El Bulli” in the way that is considered the best restaurant in Spain and it’s toughest reservation at the moment. All of this for good reason….I wholeheartedly assure you.
It still takes me a moment to get my head around the idea that this accomplished restaurant is operated by 3 brothers - as I can barely arrange to attend a simple sporting event with my two brothers without much of the plan dramatically falling to pieces. The Roca brothers each bring their specialty to the table : Joan handles the savory, Jordi the sweet, and Josep, the sommelier, handles the liquid portion of the meal. Each part of the trinity profoundly gifted. Each a master of their own domain.
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No meal, fortuitously, on holiday to this blessed country on the Iberian Peninsula was a throw-away. I remember each and every last one with the fondness reserved for living entities. I will cherish the handful of strategically mapped dining experiences unto my very last breath (too far?). Like I said - no meal was a afterthought, but one was supposed to be…..
In the previous paragraph I alluded to “strategically mapped dining experiences” and this was the case indeed. Every meal, as many of these coveted reservations must be secured months in advance, was diligent prepped and plotted. This outline, the blueprint for culinary bliss, was schemed down to a t (the origin of the expression down “to a t” or “tee” is actually a shortened form of “to a tittle”, an expression in use in English by the early 17th century with the meaning “to the smallest detail.”). The reservation calender throughout Northeastern Spain literally defined the trips itinerary. And there is no shame in that. Thus, a lunch reservation at one of the most celebrated restaurants in all of the world in Girona required shelter within the vicinity the night before. A picturesque restored Castle forty minutes East of Girona was identified and booked, the beautiful Castell d’Emporda in La Bisbal d’Emporda.
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“In my entire life, I haven’t eaten anything I haven’t had fun making.”
Many a statue can be found throughout San Sebastian, Spain. These carefully carved and crafted works of art can be found in the squares, in medians on the main avenues, and along the promenades, specifically by Playa de la Concha. There is the well know ‘Day 7 Statue with Sword’ of Antonio de Oquendo standing high and mighty, flag clutched left arm to breast, his chest puffed out. There is, my favorite, a statue of Don Quixote setting out to revive chivalry with his trusted companion Sancha Panza following behind him on a donkey, simple farmer that he was. This statue is a smaller version of the famed original which is located in the Plaza de Espana Square in Madrid. It’s a gem. And, there is also a herculean statue of Christ located high upon Mount Urgull overlooking the city. You can hardly make a move in San Sebastian without being in his line of sight, within his realm of watching and judging.
However unlikely, it is possible that a statue could one day be erected to join these persons frozen in time that would be of a man whose craft isn’t usually associated with these type of dedications. By a man who simply….cooks. It may sound a little far-fetched I realize, the ranting of a crack pot. But the more you learn about Juan Mari Arzak, the candidate for canonization I am speaking of, and his contributions to the region, the more you will begin to see it might not be so crazy after all.
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It is difficult to fully describe the feeling of boarding an airplane bound for a place that I have dreamt of, both day and the old fashioned nighttime brand, for years on end. A place I have researched thoroughly, held in the highest esteem in many lights, and a place I have yearned to visit for some time. A place the quotable, opinionated, and well traveled (not to mention well fed) Anthony Bourdain describes as:
“Outside of Asia - It is the single greatest location for culinary achievement in the world”
Strong words and words that have bounced around the capacity of my skull for days on end. I decided to do something about it, to act. Arrangements were made for travel and, of course, for dining in Spain….and here goes everything. Plus Ultra!!!!!
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Anthony Bourdain on food, cool, and the hipster (via Eater):
“Food’s cool, and there is no question about it. Jonathan Gold was all over that. Like anything that’s cool, there’s plenty to make fun of, just as was the case with indie bands and art house cinema. Not too long ago, you’d be going out to a movie, then at dinner you’d talk about the movies you had seen recently and the ones you were going to see next week. Now, you’re going to dinner and talking about the dinner you had last week and the dinner you’re having next week. It’s a different world.
They’re scurrying everywhere, these foodies. Look at Austin, Louisville, Portland of course. I love making fun of the hipster foodies, because they are annoying and comedy gold, but it’s a good thing. Look at all the places where there are exciting culinary scenes: Kansas City, Boston, Seattle. They’re all driven by hipster. How can this be bad? Instead of playing hackeysack or opening a bicycle shop, they’re making cheese.”
Well Put.
It is very few and far between when I allow a photo to speak for itself, as I tend to delve into topics with the lack of brevity exhibited by many a raconteur. But the photo of the pork shoulder presented to yours truly at The Breslin last evening DEMANDS to indeed speak for itself…and speak it does, with great command and influence.
In related and timely news April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig, The Breslin. The John Dory Oyster Bar) releases her first cookbook today, entitled ‘a girl and her pig’. In it she recounts her humble English beginnings and road to success. It also features beautiful illustrations, photographs, and practical and refreshingly unpretentious recipes, from Roasted Veg to British pub favorites such as Beef and Bayley Hazen Pie. Required reading……
Two people, longtime friends, committing to be in each others life in front of all their closest people was the reason I was in Dallas, Texas. A sound tip and some free time was the reason I sought out a gas station for….tacos.
This is not the first time I have raved about the food at a gas station (Fast Gourmet, Washington DC), and I have the feeling it won’t be the last. I have encountered and/or read about many a service station serving above average cuisine. It got me thinking, possibly a little too much. I began to think about the nature of the gas station in the scheme of the American landscape. About how in many remote locations, specifically in the gaudier states out West, you will see little for hundreds of miles besides a station for filling. Anyone who passes that way, surely, must stop to fill up their vehicle as there were many miles before happening upon this station, and many more to follow. It is only natural, necessary even, that this station provide not only fuel for the vehicle you travel in but also for you. Thus, a gas station serving food feels innate, matter of course. An old-timey trading post flush with all you need to continue your journey, of sorts. But, a gas station serving some of the better dishes you will come about….that still seems a stretch.
Not in Dallas.
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